Radio Electronics

I've having problems with my truck lately... I at best bought it a little over two months ago and it's now out of warranty and I'm on a really restricted income.. I've been searching on the internet for months now and I assume I finally narrowed it down to an electrical problem, possibly with the PCM.

The problem is that when I start the truck, SOMETIMES it wont start.. it'll try to bend over but the spark plugs wont ignite.. I changed all the spark plugs and the ignition coils and im still getting the same puzzler. Also, it'll start like nothings wrong at all, until I drive it for a little while and the engine will begin to chug like it wants to hedging, and sometimes it does if im at a complete stop, but if i keep driving through the chugging it'll stay alive.

So far i've cleaned the throttle heart, changed the PVC valve, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, 6 spark plugs and ignition coils. I've also checked all the vacuum hoses for leaks. All these things were things that basic to be replace because the were dirty as sin, but it hasn't solved the main issue.

Any suggestions on how I can check the PCM at home without having to take it to a dealership or renewal shop?
Sorry, it was the PCV valve that was replaced

2009-08-28 10:42:06 by Brad S

A 7,000-lb truck runs over a 9-lb Oreck XL21 vacuum cleaner! Will it still occupation? Also see demonstrations of impeccable 1-pass cleaning and feather ...

My truck does not out of work at proper rpms all the time. occasionally the idle will pick up idle speed when the engine gets towards. We have already checked filters, fuel pressure, cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked stubbornness on many sensors, put in fuel injector cleaner, sprayed intake cleaner into air intake, changed battery, changed fuel cheesecloth, and attempted to look for vacuum leaks.

2009-08-15 17:24:15 by chris f

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/46/2004-2007_Ford_Taurus_Sedan.jpg photo use for visual purposes.

Here's the apportion. I want to detail my car ... but other than washing the outside and vacuuming I have no serious skills in cleaning a cars interior. (I thirst to clean the upholstery and the carpets. All of the interior ... paneling and everything)

I drive this truck for a living : http://1afleet.com/images/fedex-truck-chicago_jvfb.jpg

We do not Facetious ablutions our own trucks. There is a fleet service company that contracts with Fedex Express to do the work.

They aren't allowed to do any travail on employees vehicles. I wouldn't want their brushes and hoses scratching my baby up anyway. (smiling)

Please take an oath me what to buy and basically how to detail a full size sedan?

I truly appreciate your help in this matter. She really needs it! (laughing)

Thanks and thumbs up to all who comeback! Just give me time to get back and read the answers. I'll get back from work around 7pm this evening las vegas time.
KB : I Don't Dearth To Pay Someone $95 To Wash/Detail My 2007 Taurus ...?

Fantastic answer!

Since you say $95 is cheap I might stick with that. Then again it never hurts to learn to do my own effort.

I'm not sure ... over the counter is probably a quicker an better thing for me to do. I'll think about it at work today.

Thanks again.
mikey : ha ... ha .. ha .. ha ..
That's unconventional! Thanks!

im baffling
do you want to detail the fedex
or taurus?

and 95 bucks is super cheap
for a detail-depending on what they do


but..
1. wash car

2. clay car-This removes contaminants stuck to your dye that normal washing wont get off. I recommend Meguiar's Smooth surface clay kit. You can also use the clay bar on your windows/wheels too, but of positively, do the paint first. Can also wash your car after claying, but isnt necessary

3.paint cleaners-These remove swirl marks/scratches/oxidation/etc. Bizarre strenghts, depending on the severity of the paint. I suggest Meguiars Swirlx. Swirlx may not be aggressive enough, so you may deprivation to step it up to Meguiar's ultimate compound, then follow it with Swirlx.How to use Paint cleaners: after washing and claying your car. Bid the product to a microfiber applicator. Work the product in a 16x16 in section for about a minute, then remove with microfiber towel, dont let dry. Peruse results, repeat process if needed, see if its up to your par, if not, step up to ultimate compound. Otherwise, if youre done with the section, move on and reproduction. You apply ultimate compound in the same way.

4.Pure Polish. This step is optional, as if you were to use a paint cleaner, such as the ones mentioned above, since they already have polishing oils in them. You'll remark more of a difference in using a pure polish on darker colors, but wont hurt to do it on lighter colors. Meguirs ardent crystal polish is their most user friendly polish. Their #7 polish is the best polish, but side-by-side, it will be indurate to tell a difference. To apply polish, apply to microfiber applicator. Work in about the same size cleave, kinda message it into the paint (much like applying lotion to your skin) for about 40 seconds, then wipe off with microfiber towel, dont let dry.

Wax:. Protects coat, gives shine, locks in polish. This is the only product you let dry. Apply to microfiber applicator, apply to live it up evenly in circle motions. Let dry to haze. Wipe off with microfiber towel. Two applications is best. Nxt 2.0 tech wax is Meguiars most celebrated wax.

Then, tire shine, cant have shiny paint with horrible dull looking tires. Any will do.

All these products can be found at wal-mart.

Then for the meretricious trim/bumpers
Meguiars Natural shine protectant, or supreme shine protectant
It'll exhort it look like new.
Apply to microfiber towel, wipe on
let dry for 10 min, wipe off



also best to pick up some
painters ribbon and tape off
all trim pieces,
get wax or polish
or anything on those
and they stain

as for the inside:
vacumn first
mix a solution of dish soap and drinking-water in a spray bottle
and use that to clean the panels dashboards..(clean with microfiber towel)
for carpet, use tuff belongings, it works pretty good
but if you had something like bissells little green machine that would be excellent
then you can outfit the dash/panels with the natural shine protectant


do you just want products that can be found over the counter?
or would you sagacity ordering online?


Any questions
email


and yes, the products you will buy may come close to 95
but the products will also last more than one use

2009-08-14 08:34:28 by Phillip B (GEORGIA ON MY MIND)

ok the truck will start but the only way to keep it on-going is to pump the gas, but when i hold the gas the motor will bog down until i let up on the gas then it dyes if i don't keep pumping it. i put in new intake gaskets, new vacuum lines i replaced : TPS, MAP, indolent air control valve, new gaskets in the TBI, pick up coil, ignition control module, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, EGR solenoid, cleaned the EGR valve, thump sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, all filters, and the ECM. the only things i haven't replaced are: electronic enkindle control module( still factory one) , fuel pump. when i replaced the intake gaskets and put the timing back to 0 considerably BTDC and then plugged in the timing bypass wire, the truck ran awesome.then two days after, i stopped at a stop shrug off when taking off from the stop it started to surge and hesitate, so i dropped the gas tank to put a new strainer in, i also took the TBI off to put new gaskets in and screens for the injectors. After i did that i started to have the can of worms i told u about . i get no SES light. i also took every ground wire off and clean them. i have no idea what to do now. new truck is out of the question.
PLEASE HELP

Wow you've been shooting in the concealed, did you ever check your fuel pressure? Do that first. Your fuel pressure regulator may be your problem, if it is stuck open you hunger for have enough fuel pressure. Also check your fuel pump relay, just in case, usually they will not start are change hard to start if the relay goes bad, they are designed to work on a bypass circuit when a specified oil weight is reached, once started they will run but not necessarily very well. One more thing, has the setting on you tps moved, make sure it is set correctly. Have you got safe exhaust flow, if not a clogged cat could be the cause, if your blowing black smoke your too rich which goes back to nutriment pressure or injectors. make sure you have everything connected properly a once more over won't hurt.

2009-08-05 17:41:47 by neogone

My 1 year old is terrified of the vacuum cleaner. I separate this is a phase and it has been happening since he was 7 months old. He was a baby who I could vacuum around while he slept before then.

I can put the vacuum in the lounge room and he plays with it, sits beside it and largely gets excited by it being there! But the minute I turn it on he screams..and I mean screams!

At the moment I tend to vacuum as at the end of the day as I put him down for a sleep. Once I've finished he is screaming but then falls asleep. I have tried waiting until he is asleep several times and each span its turned on he wakes from his sleep and screams!

I've also tried vacuuming whilst holding him but he is 10.5kg and he is screaming and struggling to get out of my arms!

My questions is..I remember it's a phase but what can I do in the meantime..I need to vacuum my house but I'm sad for him as he is really upset. (He is also scared when the garbage truck comes as it makes a extravagant sound..but I'm not bothered by that at this stage)

Thank you :)

My Son will be 1 tomorrow. He HATES the vacuum. I intimate hates it. He screams when I take it out of the closet, he never minded it when he was little. So our situation is very similar, as of now I have only been vacuuming when my Husband is internal and can take him to the other room while I do it, or I hold him. Even then he is trying to get out of my arms and crying. So I know eventually he will grow out of it, so I guess its barely a waiting game for now. Otherwise try to vacuum while someone else can hold him.

2009-08-01 17:20:55 by gilly

Mechanism was pressure washed, now the idle is running at 2000 RPM and slowly rises. 1993 Ford F-150 5.0 EFI. So far, here is where we are at...

No vacuum leaks.
No unintelligible wires.
All wire harnesses were sprayed with WD-40 to displace any water that may have gotten past a seal.
Recently replaced the following: Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, windings, tps, iac unit, egr valve and motor, cold air intake k&n, fuel filter, o2 sensor, and tranny serviced.--(Apparatus was running awesome after these replacements)

Now, immediately after the engine was pressure washed, the engine idle is expensive. While driving, the throttle is slightly more engaged than I would like, and the truck will not slow when you let off the gas. Oiled the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle essentials, no luck.

All fuses have checked fine. When I disconnect the IAC valve, I get an engine that idles where it's supposed to. I took the IAC at a distance, it's ohmn resistance is within specs. It's internals are clean and engage properly.

So, I'm thinking I have a sensor mind-boggler. Air Charge Sensor, MAP sensor, coolant temp sensor, barametric sensor, or ECM failure? Any refrain from would be appreciated as this is probably going to start getting expensive.

The vehicle has had a day to dry out, lots of wd-40 to fire water. Please don't offer anything that I've already written about trying.
If the IAC were stuck open, when I disconnect the wiring, shouldn't there be no conversion in idle? The IAC disconnected is closed, when powered is open. Makes me think a sensor before the IAC could be to blame.
Throttle State Sensor was destroyed by the water. Replaced that today and all is fine. If anyone comes across this. If you have a similar problem, inspire the gas when idling. If it's slow to return to it's base, the TPS is the culprit.

First, don't ever dig an engine with water. If you think you must wash it, use something that will not cause rust and corroded electrical connections.
Uncouple the throttle cable at the TB and verify that the inner cable moves freely inside the housing. The salt water may have been forced up into the housing and caused rust. Oiling at one end may have not been enough! You may need to oil from the gas pedal end. While the cable is loose, hinder the idle speed. If it is still too high, the problem is somewhere else.

2009-07-30 20:28:22 by Kevin M